Dashboard Rattles

Heater and Ducting
The ducting that feeds the windscreen with hot air from the heater can rattle and vibrate, again it's more common on the old recirculatory heaters. The heater itslef can work loose.

Dashboard Trim
On the MM-type dashboard the alumunium trim in the centre can come loose, and the oil pressure gauge tube can rattle int time with the engine vibrations if there is insufficient slack between the engine connection and the dash/bulkhead grommet.

Speedo Cable
The speedo cable can 'click' if it's dry (lubricate the cable with copper/graphite grease), and the cable will make odd noises if it's breaking up inside. Also, make sure that the cable doesn't have any kinks in it, this can also make it click.

Battery
A loose battery can make a hell of a racket, check that the rataining bracket is holding firmly and that there is no movement in the battery at all.

Engine Steady Bar
A broken engine steady bar will make a horrible noise, steel grating against steel, vibrating right through the bulkhead and dashboard. If the noise occurs more often with low revs then a broken bar is likely. With the engine running at very low revs (to make the engine vibrate as much as possible), pull on the engine steady bar and see if either the noise stops or you can feel movement in the rear end of the bar. Check the bulkhead around the rear end of the bar for cracks.
 
 

Door Rattles

Chrome Door Handle Surround
The chrome door handle surround on the outside of the door can work loose. Open the door and tighten the screw that holds the chrome surround in place.

Door Latch Mechanism
Tighten all screws that hold the latch/tongue in place. If your door has not been shutting properly, loose screws here can cause the tongue to recede into the door and prevent it from catching on the striker plate properly. And rattle.

Window Frame
With the door open, hold the door itself with one hand and the window frame with the other. Try to wiggle the window frame without moving the door. If it moves, it'll probably rattle.

On the front door there are two places to check for loose bolts, the rear edge of the door and inside the door itself. At the rear edge of the door, below the latch mechanism, there should be two holes covered by rubber grommets. Remove the grommets and check that the bolts underneath are tight.

To check the bolts inside the door you will have to remove the interior door panel. Do this by first removing the door handle, window winder and door pull, and carefully prising out the door panel clips that are attached to the back of the panel itself. The door panel is attached to the door by means of small spring clips that push into holes in the door. You may need to use a small screwdriver to get some leverage under the first couple of clips, but be careful because the clips have probably begun to rust or have become brittle and may break. You should be able to get replacements at any decent upholsterers, but why cause hassle if you can avoid it?

With the door panel removed, you should be able to see a group of bolt-heads in the middle of the door. Four of these (in a rectangle pattern) are to hold the window winder mechanism on, two more (vertical) are to hold a spacer bracket on, and the last one is for the window frame. Check that they are all tight. The bracket and window frame bolts have nuts on the back so you may need to get a spanner or socket in there too. The window winder mechanism uses captured nuts.

Window Winder Mechanism
Although rare, the coil spring inside the winder mechanism can rust and ultimately break. To replace this, you will have to remove the four bolts mentioned above that hold it in place, remove the spacer bracket and remove the bolt at the bottom of the window frame (all of which you just carefully tightened!). Now manoeuver the mechanism forward inside the door cavity to release the lifter arm from the channel in the bottom of the window. Once released, you then have to get the lifter arm to the other side of the window frame. This is because there is not enough room on the interior side of the window frame to get the mechanism through. Pull the winder out through the large central hole in the door. With the replacement winder ready to go in, apply a liberal amount of grease to the channel that the winder lifter arm runs in and also some to the gears of the winder itself before refitting. And of course, refitting the replacement winder is, in true Haynes DIY manual style, 'a simple reversal of this process'.

Window Glass
The window glass is supposed to run in the window frame with a felt-like material in the channel to stop rattles. This material is actually on a rail which is spot-welded to the window frame, but by now it has probably worked loose and has dropped in the frame allowing the window glass to rattle on the frame. Replace the felt strip with either an original item or simply an appropriately sized strip of felt. Glue the pieces into place using a good 2-pot glue and allow to dry overnight before using the window.
 
 

Gearstick Rattles

Gearstick 'O'-Ring
The 948cc and 1098cc gearboxes have a 'remote' gearstick, that is, it uses a linkage from the gears themselves back to the base of the gearstick allowing the gearstick to have a shorter throw. The pivot point of the gearstick is a captive 'ball' below which is a short rod that actuates the remote lever system. The ball has a small 'o'-ring that prevents the gearstick from rattling. It is this that wears out and must be replaced. It's not essential, but it sure is pleasant not having to rest my leg against the vibrating gearstick whilst cruising!

Gearstick Return Spring
The base of the gearstick has a small spring and cap setup that pushes against the pivot arm of the gearstick and provides resistance when attempting to engage reverse gear. This spring can become weak and stop making firm contact with the gearstick shaft and therefore starts rattling. Replace the spring and/or cap to stop the rattle.