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Quayside Walk…
(Train ½ mile. Metro, ½ mile. Bus service.)
Walk in Safety. You must use your own judgement on this and all of our walks, if during any section of this walk you feel that it is too difficult, stop. There is one steep gradient on this walk which you should assess before ascending, that is The All Saints Church section. This can be missed out by beginning at the Guildhall, turning left by Bessie Surtees House, then go under the High Level Bridge…Fish Market…Swing Bridge…Tyne Bridge…walk the length of the Quayside…at the Millennium Bridge turn left into the Milk Market…walk toward the Law Courts. Turn right into Broadchare and finish there! Returning to the beginning via the Quayside.
N.W.T.
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his walk begins outside the Guildhall on the Quayside.
Like all of our walks we believe it to be both an informative enjoyable mixture of past and present
Initially the walk begins on the flat area of Sandhill it then moves up a fairly steep gradient and down the other side. Eventually returning along the flat Quayside to the start of the walk via the Swing Bridge area.
It would be wise to assess the steep gradient, which rises up Akenside Hill from Sandhill. Wheelchair access along the Quayside area only is perhaps comfortably possible, that is if you wish to leave out the All Saints Church and the Keelman’s Hospital sections of the walk.
Also set out below and marked -------- The Holy Jesus Hospital-------- section of the walk may be to some strenuous this section can be omitted; no internal access can be gained to the building and some may find its addition is perhaps unnecessary.
· Sandhill and surrounding areas
Standing as you are now outside the Guildhall you are in an area that could be said to have ‘lived’, ‘died’, and been ‘born’ again in the space of 500 years. In front of you is Sandhill.
Looking over to the traffic on the mini roundabout in front of you, you may think that life gets busier every day. Well in this case in doesn’t! This area has seen busier times. Probably the earliest recollections would have been of a burn (The Lort Burn) running out onto a sandy beach and into the river. Then later it formed a recess in the rivers bank with a small harbour, with the burn leading far up into the City, where Dean and Grey Street now stand.
2000 years ago you would have seen Roman Soldiers marching in the area coming from the site of the first Roman bridge across the river, near to where the Swing Bridge now stands.
At the time the ‘New Castle’ was built 1177 you would have raised your head to your left to look up the steep grassed banks on the castles Eastern approaches and with the Lort Burn in front of you. Both presented strategic obstacles and formidable defences for the Castle.
Around the 13th century the area began to develop rapidly, and by the 15th century it had become the heart of the Town. Here was the seat of local government as well as the biggest market place in the North—selling fish, leather, cloth, herbs, spices and all forms of merchandise. With the nearby thriving River Tyne the area was a meeting place for coal traders, fishermen and many other business people. The whole area was adorned with beautiful Tudor style houses, shops and business premises of wealthy merchants and traders, some of the buildings are still standing which you will see in front of you. The whole area being summed up as, 'having a busy trade, amongst blithe people’.
· Guildhall
(Open to the public by appointment only) Tel. 0191-2778011 Sat. 2-3 & 3-4pm
The Guildhall, a grade 1 listed building, dating from1655…. It was, as its name suggests, a meeting place and Court House of the Merchants Guilds of the City.
On the first floor stood the meeting rooms as well as the Great Hall, which still stands magnificently adorned with the original plaques and emblems representing each of the Cities guild of Craftsmen.
The Chamber was once the setting of The Sheriff’s, The Mayor’s, The Admiralty, and The River Courts. To the court of The Admiralty, James I granted permission to equip and man a ship to patrol the coast for pirates! And more famously perhaps, The Assize Courts, which were held here where deportation and hanging sentences were metered out as punishment to the guilty parties.
In 1740 rioters who were protesting at the price of Corn viciously attacked the Hall. It is said to have taken three companies of soldiers to prevent what could have been the ransacking of the whole City.
Cross the road to Bessie Surtees House. Then walk toward Akenside Traders Pub in front of you to your right.
With your back to the main entrance of the Guildhall walk off to your Left and at the first Pelican Crossing cross the road to ‘Bessie Surtees House’.
· Bessie Surtees House
Open to the public free of charge.10-4pm Fri. Sat. Mon. Partial wheelchair access. Tel.no.0191-2325325
Still standing, Milbank House as it was known when it was built around 1500, was first owned by R. Rhodes a lawyer and wealthy business man. It became more famous in Newcastle history as being the home of Bessie Surtees. Bessie was said to possess great beauty and was the daughter of a wealthy banker who believed only the best was good enough for her. Bessie however secretly fell in love with a coal fitter’s son, John Scott. Knowing her father would not condone the partnership; on 18th November 1772 they eloped. The local tale being that she jumped from a first floor window into his waiting arms! (See the Plaque above the door.) They both then fled to Scotland where they married. Later returning to Newcastle, John, the coal fitter’s son, eventually became Lord Eldon and Chancellor.
The house later became the local head quarters of a shipping company. It is now the regional Headquarters of English Heritage.
Another house standing nearby, in its historic grandeur, is probably the oldest in the area, the ‘Red House’. The house was actually part of what was a group of dwellings and offices. Perhaps its most famous visitor was…On the 2nd October 1648 Oliver Cromwell returning from his first visit to Scotland, stopped here and had lunch with the City’s Mayor. Over a century ago it was part of the property was occupied by the Tea and Coffee Company of Probert. Now one of The Quaysides many popular pubs!
Walking on past The Offshore Pub and around the corner you will find a quaint alleyway. The ally marks the beginning of the Side. An unusual name for a street, which is thought, may have come from the fact that it leads up to the side of the Castle.
· Side Gallery & bookshop.
Open Mon and Sun Admission is Free.
It houses a fine photographic gallery specialising in documentary work by local, national and international
Photographers.
· Collingwood (Admiral Lord)
One of the most famous inhabitants of The Side was born and lived for a time at number 3, which no longer standing was at the upper end of the street. He was Admiral Lord Collingwood, second in command to Nelson at the Battle of Trafalgar.
Now as you come out of The Gallery cross the road to The Akenside Traders Public House.
· Akenside
Although not built originally as an alehouse The Akenside Traders is named after Mark Akenside. Born on the nearby Butcher Bank in 1721, the son of a Butcher, he attended The Newcastle Royal Grammar School and became a leading poet and physician.
Walking past the Pub, Stop at the cash point next door and as the nearby plaque informs you, you are at the site of the 14th century Cale Cross Market (Cale from a broth sold at the site, Cale meaning cabbage) also sold were what we now call dairy products. There once stood, marking the site, a large stone Market cross which, although taken down in 1773 to make room for the increase in traffic, still stands at Blagdon.
You now are walking under the massive supports of The Tyne Bridge. Pass a Pub on your left and continue up Akenside Hill in front of you. Previously called Butchers Bank it once had 33 Butchers shops situated on both sides of the hill. The butchers made full use of the close proximity of the Lort Burn, which served as a dumping ground for the neighbourhood waste, including that of the 33 butchers shops! At the beginning of the 19th Century the common practice of waste dumping in the burn made it a disease ridden open sewer.
· All Saint’s Church
Any/all enquiries can be made on tel. 0191-2612457.
With your back to the Akenside turn left and continue up the hill under the Tyne Bridge. You will see emerging on your left All Saints Church. On this site a Christian Church has stood since 1286. Many years prior to that stood a Roman Temple of worship.
Standing now on the site is what is believed to be the first Georgian Church in the country, ‘All Saints Church’.
Turn left up Pilgrim Street and in front of you, you will see the Church with its magnificent spire. Described as a rare elliptical building taking the form of the Pantheon at Rome it was built between 1786-1789 at a cost of £27,000, to replace All Hallows Church. Unfortunately nowadays the once magnificent panoramic views are crowded by less than picturesque modern office blocks. Although the remaining grassed area surrounding the church does brighten the area slightly.
Wander into the Churchyard and browse the inscriptions on the gravestones, which reflect individual local dates and lives. Now an Anglican-Catholic Church services ceased in 1961.
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This part of the walk can be omitted as some may find inclusion makes the walk too long.
· Holy Jesus Hospital
Walk on the path way between the church and the office blocks. Then cross over the road directly in front of you. You will see the number 10 on the stone railway arch directly in front of you. Walk up the pathway on your right under and the railway arch and follow the signs to the Holy Jesus Hospital. Look out for the attractive restaurant / café quaintly serving snacks tucked under the arches.
The Jesus, Freemen’s or Town’s Hospital as it has been known was built in 1681 and stands upon the site of what was a Saxon Monastery, where it is believed are buried some of the ancient Kings of Northumbria. It was built by the town’s corporation to support, ’poor and impotent people,
Being Freemen and Freemen’s widows, or their sons and daughters that have never been married’.
In 1736 the 39 residents were there on the understanding that they were unable to raise any more than £15 per year. They in turn received an allowance as well as coal at Christmas.
In 1880 the building was used as a soup Kitchen and most recently was a museum.
Having visited the Hospital return to All Saints.
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· Chares
Even if the visit to the H.J. Hospital is not included the walk continues outside the Church with the new houses (Dog Bank) to your left.
From this spot you will see a view of the Tyne Bridge, The Millennium Bridge and toward Kings Street where you will see the first signs of the ‘Chares’.
Chares were a system of narrow alleys leading away from the river at right angles to it, between Sandhill and Pandon Burn which is near to the Milk Market or Sandgate area, these chares are believed to have come about because of the need to cram in as many dwellings and people in them as possible. In the very small but very popular Quayside Area.
They had many names, Blew Anchor Chare, Grundon Chare, Pepper Corn Chare and Dark Chare although many were destroyed in the Great Fire of 1854 there is still evidence of their size later along the walk.
Now walk to your left down past the new houses of Dog Bank, you will see on the skyline with the massive Law Courts in front of you.
Walking on and down the bank you are moving toward what was once the great Pandon Burn area.
At the foot of the bank in front of you, you will see Sallyport House standing near to the part on the wall where stood the Sallyport Tower. Still standing are the magnificently preserved city walls high up to your left next to the railway lines at this point are the remains of Wall Knoll Tower and Sallyport. The City Wall intermingles with the stonewalls built at that point to shore up the east sides of ancient Pandon Burn now covered over. At this point to your left, first mentioned in 1390, stood the beautiful gardens and mansion of The De-Cowgate family, which overlooked the Pandon Dean and Burn area where you now overlook. To you right is Broadchare; turn right.
· Broadchare
Turn right into ‘Broadchare,’ named as such as it was the only Chare where 2 carts could pass. Here you will still see where the old houses, and warehouses, although converted, still stand. To your left you will see the multi-million pound Law Courts. Walking toward the river the first building you will see is ‘Broadchare Chamber’. One of the many ‘chambers’, in the area, used by the Barristers working in the nearby Law courts.
· Trinity House
Open Tue-Fri Apr-Oct. tel. 0191-2614691 See. www.trinityhousenewcastle.org.uk
Walking on Trinity House stands on an area of land given as a meeting place for The Guild of Pilots and Mariners. The building and fraternity were centred on religion. It has a chapel, meeting hall, library, school and an almshouse. The original building was restructured in both1505 and 1525. In 1841 a mock Tudor front was added. . Trinity house over the years gained a greater control status over the river and the shipping movements on it. In 1536 King Henry VIII granted a charter allowing Trinity to build two towers at the mouth of the Tyne to guide ships into the river, for this they charged 4d for foreign vessels and 2d for English.
Nowadays although many of the old guilds have ceased, brethren use the building for social purposes.
· Maritime Museum
The building next door is the ‘Maritime Museum’.
For information on opening times, which are on specified dates, tel. 0191-2614991.
· Live Theatre and Café
The next building is the home of the Live Theatre and Live Theatre Café.
A Cabaret style theatre, it is home of the Live Theatre Company, who have an accepted national profile. It has links with locally and nationally acclaimed writers. It has nurtured the talents of Tim Healey, Robson Green, Joe Caffery and Libby Davison. Tel. 0191-2321232.
· A Chare?
The next archway leads through to Trinity Chambers another barristers practice. Walk through the archway and look to your left where you will see a small, but fine example, of the width of one of the few Chare’s left on the Quayside today.
Back out onto Broadchare you may wish to call into the popular Bonded Warehouse and Wig ‘n' Pen pubs serving food and ale, both are popular spots for those working in the Law Courts.
At the end of Broadchare turn left onto The Quayside. As you do you can’t fail to be impressed by your first real view of The Millennium Bridge. On the other side of which you will see the Grand and stately ‘Baltic Flour Mill’
· The Millennium Bridge
This pedestrian and cycle bridge links the developments on both sides of the river. It is the World’s first rotating bridge weighing 850 tonnes, opened in the summer of 2001. Designed to open and close like an eye, it has an arch span of 105 metres. Enjoy the grand views of the Quayside from the bridge as well as the massive Gateshead-Quays redevelopment on the South side of the river.
· Baltic Flour Mill
The former Baltic Flour Mill on the South or Gateshead bank of the Tyne is to become the largest international centre for contemporary visual arts outside of London, with 10,000 square metres of space.
See. www.balticmill.com and see www.gateshead-quays.com
BACK ON THE NEWCASTLE SIDE OF THE RIVER.
Return and walk on past the courts, or call in to the public galleries to watch/listen to a trial. If you do, before you go into the court, stop. As you will have ascended high above the river to reach the court room, take in the whole area from the magnificent view.
Passing the court on your left you will see the new flats in the area of Cox Chare. On to the very popular Waterline Pub and the Milk Market Area.
In front of you, you will see a set of traffic lights. Take time to appreciate what was again another extremely busy and popular area of Newcastle…
· Milk Market: SANDGATE AND THE KEELMEN
At the east end of the Quayside is an area called Sandgate. Sandgate was the main Easterly gate of the city wall giving access to the Quay.
This street is however better famed as the one time home of that famous Newcastle community, the Keel Men, who were unique to the region. These were the highly skilled boatmen, who handled the movement of coal from the riverside to ships anchored in the River Tyne. The Keelmen took their name from their small vessels called Keels, which could carry around 20 Tons of coal.
The word keel was believed to be the first English word ever to be written down referring to the boats used (recorded by a Welsh chronicler in the sixth century). Its etymology is explained by R.J.Charleton, in his `History of Newcastle Upon Tyne’ (1882). He reminds us that when the heathen Anglo-Saxons invaded Britain in the fifth and sixth centuries, they sailed across the sea in boats called Ceols which;
“After all these centuries…are still to be seen (on the Tyne) as though endowed with the enduring and persistent characteristics of the race that built them”.
Charleton claims that the design of the ‘Keel’ was very similar to that of the Anglo-Saxon Ceol. The earliest recorded use of Keels for transporting coal on the Tyne is in the early 1300’s and it is possible that at this time the Keelmen had already established a community in the Sandgate district.
Cross over the road to something that looks like a Lighthouse. You are now in the centre of old Sandgate. Behind the lighthouse you will see a stone memorial dedicated to the area. Built in 1996, it is ‘The River God’ by Andre Wallace.
TO BE ADDED…background to…
· Paddy’s Market
· Milk Market
Both had roots and were based in this area of Newcastle.
Walk down the steps and stand at the corner where you will see a building to your left. This was once an Old Co-op Warehouse now after a renovation and facelift the building is a Hotel. The new building to your right is the popular ‘Pitcher and Piano’ pub.
As you stand now looking down river you may wish to walk further along the developing quayside. If you do, or as you stand looking downstream, you will see on your let a modern housing development. Beyond that you will see a white or light coloured building. The building is a clubhouse for boating enthusiasts. It is a popular belief that at the place where that building stands the first ever settlement in the whole area was based.
Having taken in the view downstream turn around and take in probably the most famous view of all of Newcastle and Tyneside. The Bridges.
If you haven’t already you must take photographs of all of them.
The Tyne Bridge
The Swing Bridge
The High Level Bridge
The Queen Elizabeth I Metro Bridge
King George V Railway Bridge
Redheugh Bridge
Anchored in the river to the left you will see the Tuxedo Princess, a floating nightclub affectionately and locally known as The Boat.
· Westerly Square
Walking up river now toward ‘the bridges’ you will see Westerly Square. A great place to sit and rest whilst appreciating the Quayside in front of you and the graphic stone carving behind you.
See set out on the north wall the course of the river as it makes its way through the area to the sea.
· Sunday Market
From this point every Sunday, (between 10am-2pm) and stretching the whole length of the Quayside from the Swing Bridge to the Millennium Bridge, you will find the North’s biggest outdoor market. Selling bargains galore! The first market had its origins in medieval times and most likely sold more food than the varied items of clothes, food, electrical items and many other 21st century items sold today.
Walking along the quayside the domed building to your right was used as a set in one of the ‘Spender’ episodes being portrayed as flats.
Now as you walk along past the domed building, you will see Coronation Buildings, which are a typical example of the many offices built to replace the Houses and Chares.
There still remains an historic romantic atmosphere on the Quayside. Notice as you walk along the small alley entrances, indicating chares as can be seen by the size of gaps or pathways between each building. Between Coronation Building and Flynn’s bar is this evidence of a chare?
Walking onto The Old Customs House. Built in 1766 and still standing majestically as a tribute to its era, stop and look at the designs above the main entrance.
Find nearby Fenwick’s Entry, was this an old Chare?
Look for The Tyne Tees Shipping Company and the Ship Owner’s Exchange Buildings and see how the ‘developers’ have catered for modern day needs using latter day tools. Stop and visit the beautiful Parisa Café.
Perhaps stop and wonder how those poor and starving, living in the Chares all those years ago, would have viewed the modern day developments.
· Tyne Bridge
As you have walked along the Quayside you will have noticed The Tyne Bridge. You should now be standing next to the base of The North Tower where the magnificent architectural splendour can be even more appreciated. The bridge is probably the most outstanding of the six bridges and has for nearly a century without doubt been recognised worldwide. Opened in 1929 by King George V. It was built by Dorman Long of Middlesborough to relieve the pressure of road traffic from the South-North route through the city. It is said to have served as a model for the similar, but very much larger Sydney Harbour Bridge (although this theory is debated).
Cross the road and now walk toward the Swing Bridge passing by the rear or riverside, side, of The Guildhall.
· Swing Bridge
A grade 1 listed building, built between 1875-76 by Armstrong. It stands on the site where the first Roman Bridge and medieval bridges stood, and where ‘Bridge End Gate,’ part of the City Wall as located.
During the construction of this ‘Swing Bridge’, two Roman altars were dredged from the river. The altars were believed to have been dedicated to the gods Neptune and Oceanus and would have been placed upon a shrine built to protect the Roman bridge of Pons Aelius from the tidal Tyne.
The current bridge has motor, control and engine rooms. It is open to the public between 9-1pm and 2-4pm Sat & Sun. Pre book. 0191-2778011.
Take time to walk over the bridge. Then walk onto the Old Fish Market building.
· Fish Market
Built in 1880 it is one of the newer buildings on the Quay. It to, once abandoned, has been like many other buildings, ‘developed’ and is now a nightclub.
The modern walkway you are now on is also a cycleway, which is being constructed between Wylam, up river and Tynemouth, at the mouth of the river.
You may see people fishing from there, they usually trying to catch sea fish, cod and plaice most popular, giving an indication to how clean the river is at that point.
· High Level Bridge
Almost as soon as leave the Swing Bridge you underneath yet another Bridge, The High Level. Its name suggests the position at which it lies. The oldest of Newcastle's Tyne bridges, it was built to meet the demands of the railway age, between 1846-1849 under the supervision of two engineers, Robert Stephenson and T.E. Harrison to the designs of Robert Stephenson. It is a rail, road and pedestrian Bridge consisting of 6 iron arches surrounded by stone and supporting two tiers, with the mainline London-Edinburgh railway running above and the road and pedestrian ways some 90 feet from the water beneath.
· The Close and Javel Groupe Areas
Walking behind the fish market you will see a traffic roundabout. Make your way on to this and find the information board. On it you will see details of the area you are now in, that being The Javel Groupe Area.
The whole area around you however is also known as The Close. Originally the whole area up stream of the old Tyne Bridge (situated near to the current Swing Bridge) and Quayside was known as The Close. The bridge itself prevented larger vessels from passing upstream. The street itself was not unlike those described earlier although without the Chares it had warehouses, offices and houses. The only one remaining in some grandeur is The Cooperage. Once used as a Cooperage business premises it is now like much of its neighbours around the corner used as a pub!
Leave the area and walk past Julie’s nightclub. Pass Castle Stairs and you are now back to the beginning of the walk.
We who put together Newcastle Walking Tours do so purely for the enjoyment and information of others. Although we cannot guarantee that the information is correct, it is to the best of our knowledge. We prepare the walks as a hobby; there is no financial gain whatsoever. We walk them and research them to the best of our ability.
We hope you have enjoyed this particular walk and would appreciate any feedback on it, which would allow us to improve the walk or any factual information not recorded or wrongly recorded. We do hope you will walk with us again. More walks are being prepared around Newcastle for your enjoyment.
Thank you NWT.
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